Chardonnay was shunned during the '80s and '90s primarily because of the quality of the mass-produced bottles that flooded the market. These Chardonnays were often described as buttery, clumsy, oaky, and overpowering. The characteristics that made them popular in the first place – the rich buttery texture and the pronounced oak flavors – eventually became their downfall.
During this time, there was a boom in the American wine industry, particularly in California. Wineries were popping up all over the West Coast, and there was a strong desire to support the local wine scene. However, in the rush to meet the growing demand, some wineries focused more on quantity rather than quality. This led to the production of Chardonnays that lacked finesse and balance.
One of the main issues with these Chardonnays was the excessive use of oak. Oak barrels were used to ferment and age the wine, imparting flavors of vanilla, spice, and sometimes even coconut. However, some winemakers went overboard, using too much oak or using low-quality oak barrels, resulting in wines that were overwhelmed by these flavors. The oakiness became a defining characteristic of American Chardonnay, but it also masked the natural flavors of the grape, making the wine taste artificial and heavy.
Another factor that contributed to the shunning of Chardonnay was the trend towards leaner, more elegant wines. As tastes evolved and consumers became more educated about wine, they started seeking out wines that were lighter on the palate and showcased the true expression of the grape. Chardonnays that were overly buttery and heavy simply didn't fit into this new preference for finesse and subtlety.
Additionally, the popularity of Chardonnay led to an influx of lower-quality, mass-produced wines into the market. These wines were often made from high-yielding vineyards, where quantity took precedence over quality. As a result, the grapes lacked the intensity and complexity that are characteristic of well-made Chardonnays.
The negative perception of American Chardonnay was further perpetuated by the media and wine critics. They criticized the wines for lacking balance, finesse, and typicity. This created a stigma around Chardonnay, causing many wine drinkers to turn to alternative varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.
It's important to note that not all American Chardonnays from this era were poor in quality. There were certainly exceptions, with some wineries producing exceptional Chardonnays that showcased the true potential of the grape. However, these wines were often overshadowed by the flood of mass-produced, mediocre bottles.
In recent years, American Chardonnay has undergone a renaissance. Winemakers have shifted their focus towards producing more balanced, elegant wines, with less emphasis on oak and butter. This has resulted in a resurgence of interest in American Chardonnay, with many consumers rediscovering the beauty and versatility of the grape.
Chardonnay was shunned in the '80s and '90s due to the prevalence of mass-produced bottles that were buttery, clumsy, oaky, and overpowering. The excessive use of oak, lack of finesse, and the trend towards lighter, more elegant wines all contributed to the negative perception of American Chardonnay. However, the wine industry has since evolved, and American Chardonnay is now experiencing a revival with a focus on quality and balance.