Is 2012 a good year for wine?

Answered by James Porterfield

The 2012 vintage was quite variable globally, with some regions experiencing better conditions than others. As a sommelier and brewer, I have had the opportunity to taste wines from different regions and can provide some insights on the quality of the 2012 vintage.

Starting with France, it was a generally good year for most regions. Bordeaux, known for its prestigious red wines, produced solid offerings in 2012. While not considered a standout vintage, there were still many good wines to be found. The wines from this region displayed good structure and balance, with ripe fruit flavors and smooth tannins. However, it is important to note that not all producers in Bordeaux were able to achieve the same level of quality, so it is necessary to be discerning when selecting wines from this vintage.

Moving on to Burgundy, a region renowned for its elegant and complex wines, the 2012 vintage also delivered some noteworthy wines. The red wines from Burgundy showcased ripe and expressive fruit flavors, with good acidity and well-integrated tannins. The white wines, particularly those from Chardonnay, displayed freshness and vibrant acidity, making them a pleasure to drink.

In Beaujolais, known for its vibrant and fruity red wines made from Gamay, the 2012 vintage was also quite successful. The wines showed good concentration of fruit flavors, balanced acidity, and smooth tannins. This vintage was particularly favorable for the Crus of Beaujolais, with wines from Morgon, Fleurie, and Moulin-à-Vent standing out for their depth and complexity.

Unfortunately, the 2012 vintage was catastrophic for Sauternes, a region famous for its sweet and luscious dessert wines. The conditions during the growing season were unfavorable for the development of botrytis, the noble rot responsible for the concentration of flavors in Sauternes wines. As a result, the production of Sauternes in 2012 was severely impacted, and very few bottles of high-quality dessert wines were produced.

Outside of France, the 2012 vintage had its ups and downs as well. In Italy, regions such as Tuscany and Piedmont produced some exceptional wines, particularly in the top appellations like Brunello di Montalcino and Barolo. These wines displayed great concentration of flavors, firm tannins, and good aging potential.

In Spain, regions like Rioja and Ribera del Duero also had a successful 2012 vintage. The red wines from these regions showed ripe fruit flavors, well-integrated oak, and a good balance between acidity and tannins.

In the New World, regions such as California and Australia also had a mixed bag in 2012. Some producers were able to navigate the challenging conditions and produce outstanding wines, while others faced difficulties. It is important to research and select wines from trusted producers in these regions to ensure a good quality from the 2012 vintage.

While the 2012 vintage may not have been universally great, there were still many good wines to be found from various regions around the world. It is always important to consider the specific region, producer, and grape variety when evaluating the quality of a vintage.