What is the story behind Dom Perignon?

Answered by Paul Bowser

The story behind Dom Perignon is a fascinating one that combines history, mythology, and the art of winemaking. Dom Pierre Perignon, a Benedictine monk, arrived at the Abbey of Hautvillers in 1668. He is often credited with several quality advancements in winemaking processes, particularly in the region of France. However, it is important to clarify that the myth that he “invented” is not entirely accurate.

During the time when Dom Perignon was at the Abbey, sparkling wine did exist in some form. It is believed that the first traditional method sparkling wine, where the bubbles are created through a secondary fermentation in the bottle, was intentionally made in England. This method involved adding sugar and to the base wine, which would then undergo fermentation in a sealed bottle, trapping the carbon dioxide released and creating the characteristic bubbles. This process was later refined and perfected in Champagne.

Dom Perignon's contributions to winemaking were significant nonetheless. He was tasked with the responsibility of producing wine for the Abbey, and he dedicated himself to improving the quality and consistency of the wines. He experimented with blending different grape varieties, using only the best grapes from the vineyards, and refining the winemaking process. He also introduced the use of thicker glass bottles to withstand the pressure from the secondary fermentation.

One of the key advancements attributed to Dom Perignon is his emphasis on vineyard management. He understood the importance of selecting the best grape varieties for the region and paying careful attention to the ripeness and health of the grapes. He implemented strict quality control measures, such as sorting grapes before pressing and discarding any damaged or unripe fruit. These practices helped to improve the overall quality of the wines produced at the Abbey.

Dom Perignon also pioneered the use of cork stoppers to seal the bottles, replacing the less reliable wooden stoppers that were commonly used at the time. This innovation helped to preserve the wine and prevent spoilage, allowing it to age gracefully in the bottle.

Despite these advancements, it is worth noting that the wines produced during Dom Perignon's time at the Abbey were still predominantly still wines. The production of sparkling wine, as we know it today, didn't become widespread until later in the 18th century. It was the Champagne houses in the region who further refined and popularized the production of sparkling wine using Dom Perignon's techniques.

The legend surrounding Dom Perignon's discovery of sparkling wine is a charming one. It is often said that he exclaimed, “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” upon first trying a sparkling wine. While this story adds a touch of romance to the history of Champagne, it is likely more fiction than fact. Nevertheless, Dom Perignon's dedication to improving winemaking practices and his contributions to the art of Champagne production cannot be understated.

As a sommelier and brewer, I have had the privilege of tasting and studying wines from around the world, including Champagne. The influence of Dom Perignon and his commitment to quality is evident in the exceptional wines produced in the Champagne region today. It is a testament to his legacy that the name Dom Perignon has become synonymous with luxury and excellence in the world of sparkling wine.

The story behind Dom Perignon is one of innovation, dedication, and a quest for excellence in winemaking. While he did not “invent” sparkling wine, his contributions to the refinement of winemaking processes, particularly in Champagne, cannot be overlooked. Dom Perignon's legacy lives on in the prestigious Champagne houses and the exceptional sparkling wines they produce.