Premox, also known as premature oxidation, is a troubling issue that has plagued the wine industry, particularly white Burgundies, in recent years. The problem first came to light in the early 2000s and has since become a significant concern for winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike.
The onset of premox can be traced back to the mid-1990s, with white Burgundies produced during this time being some of the earliest victims of premature oxidation. However, it is important to note that premox has not been limited exclusively to this region or vintage. Wines from other regions and different vintages have also been affected by this phenomenon.
As an expert sommelier and brewer, I have witnessed the impact of premox firsthand. It is disheartening to encounter bottles of once highly-regarded white Burgundies that have succumbed to premature oxidation. The issue is not confined to a specific producer or vineyard but has affected wines across the board.
The exact cause of premox remains elusive and is a subject of ongoing debate within the industry. There are several theories that attempt to explain this phenomenon. One possible explanation is the increased use of oxygen-permeable closures, such as cork, which may allow excessive oxygen ingress over time. Another theory suggests that changes in winemaking practices, such as reduced use of sulfur dioxide or increased exposure to oxygen during production, could contribute to premature oxidation.
It is worth noting that premox is not exclusive to white wines. Some red wines, particularly those made from delicate grape varieties, have also shown signs of premature oxidation. However, the issue seems to be more prevalent in white wines, especially those made from Chardonnay grapes.
To combat premox, winemakers have implemented various measures. Some have adopted stricter hygiene practices during winemaking, reducing the risk of microbial spoilage. Others have opted for alternative closures, such as screw caps or synthetic corks, which offer better protection against oxygen ingress. However, it is important to consider the potential impact of these closures on the aging potential and development of the wine.
In my experience, premox has had a significant impact on the perception and enjoyment of white Burgundies. It has led to a loss of trust among consumers and has made it challenging to confidently recommend older vintages of these wines. As a sommelier, it is disheartening to witness the disappointment on the faces of guests who have been eagerly anticipating the experience of a well-aged white Burgundy, only to be met with signs of premature oxidation.
Premox emerged as a troubling issue in the early 2000s and has since affected white Burgundies, among other wines. The exact cause of premature oxidation remains uncertain, but it has prompted winemakers to reassess their practices and find ways to mitigate its effects. Despite these efforts, the impact of premox on the aging potential and enjoyment of wines, particularly white Burgundies, continues to be a concern within the industry.