Why is Merlot looked down on?

Answered by Robert Golston

Merlot has often been looked down upon in the world of , and there are several reasons for this perception. One significant factor is the impact of the movie “Sideways” on the wine industry. The film, released in 2004, featured a main character who famously declared, “I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!” This line had a profound effect on consumer perception and ultimately led to a decline in the popularity of Merlot.

However, it is essential to understand that the decline in Merlot's reputation was not solely due to this movie. By the time “Sideways” was released, Merlot prices were already falling due to other factors. One of the primary reasons was the overplanting of Merlot grapes by growers. In the 1990s, Merlot had become the go-to choice for many wine drinkers, leading to a surge in demand. Growers responded by planting more Merlot vines to meet this demand, but unfortunately, this led to an oversupply of grapes.

The excess grapes ended up in lesser quality, inexpensive bottles of Merlot, which ultimately harmed the reputation of the varietal. Consumers started associating Merlot with these cheaper, low-quality wines, leading to a decline in its prestige. This was a significant blow to Merlot's reputation, as consumers began to view it as an inferior choice compared to other red wines.

Another factor that contributed to Merlot's decline in reputation is the perception of it being a safe, easy choice. Merlot is known for its approachable, smooth, and fruit-forward characteristics. While these qualities can be appealing to many wine drinkers, they can also be seen as lacking complexity and depth. Some wine enthusiasts prefer wines with more structure, tannins, and ageability, which Merlot may not always deliver.

Furthermore, the influence of wine critics and sommeliers also played a role in shaping the perception of Merlot. Some influential wine critics expressed their preference for other varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, further contributing to the decline in Merlot's reputation. These opinions influenced consumers and created a bias against Merlot, perpetuating the idea that it was an inferior wine choice.

It is important to note that not all Merlots are created equal. There are exceptional examples of Merlot from renowned wine regions like Pomerol and Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux, France, which are highly regarded and sought-after by wine connoisseurs. These wines showcase the true potential and quality that Merlot can offer.

Merlot's decline in reputation can be attributed to a combination of factors. The impact of the movie “Sideways” certainly played a role in shaping consumer perception, but it was not the sole reason for Merlot's downfall. The overplanting of Merlot grapes, resulting in an oversupply of low-quality wines, and the perception of it being a safe, easy choice also contributed to its diminished prestige. However, it is crucial to recognize that there are exceptional Merlot wines available, and judging the varietal solely based on its reputation would be unfair.