Before the Prohibition era, Missouri was actually the second-largest wine producer in the United States, following California. It may come as a surprise, considering California's dominance in the wine industry today, but Missouri had a thriving wine industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As an expert sommelier and brewer, I have delved into the history of wine production in the United States, and it is fascinating to explore the rise and fall of different regions.
In the early 1900s, Missouri was producing over three million gallons of wine annually, firmly holding its place as the second-largest wine-producing state. The state had ideal conditions for grape cultivation, with a climate and soil suitable for viticulture. German immigrants, in particular, played a significant role in developing the wine industry in Missouri, bringing their winemaking skills and traditions from the Old World.
Missouri's wine industry flourished, with vineyards spread across the state, especially in areas like the Missouri River Valley, Augusta, and Hermann. Wineries thrived, producing a wide range of grape varieties, including Norton (also known as Cynthiana), which became the state's signature grape. Missouri wines gained recognition and won awards in international competitions, further solidifying the state's reputation as a prominent wine producer.
However, the passage of the 18th Amendment in 1919, which led to the Prohibition era, dealt a severe blow to the wine industry in Missouri. Vines were uprooted, chopped down, or burned, and barrels used for aging and storing wine were cut into pieces. Wineries were forced to shut down or pivot to other industries, such as grape juice production or fruit farming.
The impact of Prohibition on Missouri's wine industry was devastating. The state's winemaking heritage was nearly wiped out, with years of progress and expertise lost. When Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the wine industry in Missouri struggled to regain its former glory. Many vineyards and wineries were never reestablished, and it took decades for the industry to recover.
Today, Missouri still has a small but vibrant wine industry, particularly in the area around Hermann. Wineries have revived and embraced the state's winemaking history, producing a variety of wines, including those made from the Norton grape. However, the scale of production and national prominence that Missouri once enjoyed has not been fully regained.
In contrast, California's wine industry continued to grow even during Prohibition. Some wineries in California managed to survive by producing sacramental wines or by selling grapes for home winemaking. This allowed them to maintain their vineyards and expertise, which gave California a head start when Prohibition was repealed. California's wine industry surged in the decades following the end of Prohibition and eventually surpassed Missouri in terms of production and reputation.
As a sommelier and brewer, I've had the opportunity to taste wines from both California and Missouri. While California has undoubtedly become a global wine powerhouse, I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality and uniqueness of some Missouri wines. The state's winemakers have embraced their heritage and are producing wines that showcase the local terroir and grape varieties.
Missouri did indeed produce more wine than California before Prohibition. However, the devastating impact of Prohibition on Missouri's wine industry, coupled with the resilience and growth of California's wine industry during that time, led to a significant shift in the wine landscape. While Missouri's wine industry struggled to recover, California continued its upward trajectory, eventually becoming the top wine producer in the nation.