How is mescal made?

Answered by Joseph Vos

Mescal, a traditional Mexican spirit, is made from the agave plant, specifically the Agave salmiana species in the case of mescal from the Altiplano region. The process of making mescal involves several steps that contribute to its unique flavor and character.

1. Harvesting: The first step in making mescal is harvesting the mature agave plants. The agave salmiana plants usually take around 8-12 years to reach maturity. Harvesting is a labor-intensive process, as the plants have sharp spines and can weigh up to several hundred pounds.

2. Cooking: Once harvested, the agave plants are transported to the distillery, where they undergo the cooking process. The agave cores, also known as piñas, are placed in large stone ovens, typically underground, to be cooked. The ovens are heated with wood or charcoal, and the piñas are slow-cooked for several days. This cooking process helps hydrolyze the inulin, a complex carbohydrate, into fructose, which can be fermented into .

3. Grinding: After cooking, the softened piñas are crushed to extract the . Traditionally, this was done by using a large stone wheel, called a tahona, which is pulled by a horse or mule in a circular motion over the piñas. Nowadays, mechanical crushers are often used for efficiency. The extracted juice, known as aguamiel, is collected.

4. Fermentation: The aguamiel is transferred to large wooden vats or fermentation tanks, where it naturally ferments. The fermentation process is crucial in developing the unique flavors of mescal. The naturally occurring microorganisms present in the environment, including , convert the sugars in the aguamiel into alcohol. This fermentation can take several days to weeks, depending on various factors such as temperature and desired flavor profile.

5. Distillation: Once fermentation is complete, the fermented aguamiel is ready for distillation. The traditional method of distillation involves the use of copper stills, which are heated over an open flame. The fermented liquid is added to the stills, and as it is heated, the alcohol vaporizes and rises through the still's neck, where it condenses and is collected as mescal. This distillation process helps concentrate the alcohol and remove impurities.

6. Aging: Some mezcals are aged in or other containers to further develop their flavors. The aging process can range from several months to several years, depending on the desired characteristics of the final product. During this time, the mescal absorbs flavors from the wood, resulting in more complexity and depth.

7. Bottling: After aging, the mescal is typically filtered to remove any remaining impurities and then bottled. The bottles are often hand-labeled and sealed, reflecting the artisanal nature of mescal production.

It's important to note that the process of making mescal can vary slightly depending on the specific mezcal producer and region. Each mezcal brand may have its own unique techniques, equipment, and aging processes, resulting in a wide range of flavors and styles.

Personally, I have had the opportunity to visit a mezcal distillery in Oaxaca, Mexico, where I witnessed the entire production process firsthand. The passion and craftsmanship involved in making mescal were truly remarkable. From harvesting the agave plants to fermenting and distilling the liquid, every step was carried out with great care and attention to detail. It was fascinating to see how the mezcal developed its distinct flavors through the combination of traditional methods and the natural environment.