Is 23 year old wine good?

Answered by Michael Weatherspoon

As an expert sommelier and brewer, I have had the pleasure of experiencing a wide range of wines throughout my career. One question that often arises is whether a 23-year-old is still good. While there is no definitive answer, I can provide some insights based on my personal experiences and knowledge in the industry.

First and foremost, it's important to understand that the aging potential of a wine depends on various factors including grape variety, winemaking techniques, and storage conditions. Not all wines are meant to be aged, and in fact, the vast majority are produced to be consumed within a few years of release. These wines are created to showcase their vibrant fruit flavors and freshness, and they generally do not improve significantly with age.

However, there are certain wines that are built to age gracefully, developing complex flavors and aromas over time. These wines often have high acidity, tannins, and a strong structure that allows them to evolve and improve with age. Examples include Bordeaux, Barolo, and certain white wines like Riesling. If properly stored in a cool, dark, and humid environment, these wines can potentially reach their peak after several decades.

Now, coming back to the question at hand, a 23-year-old wine can certainly be good, but it depends on several factors. Firstly, it's crucial to consider the storage conditions the wine has been subjected to. If the wine has been stored in a cellar with consistent temperature and humidity levels, it has a higher chance of retaining its quality. On the other hand, if the wine has been exposed to heat, light, or fluctuations in temperature, it may have deteriorated significantly.

Secondly, the type of wine and its initial quality play a significant role. If you have a well-made, age-worthy wine, it may still be enjoyable and even reach its peak at 23 years of age. However, if the wine was not meant for long-term aging or if it was of lower quality to begin with, it may have passed its prime by this point.

Personal experiences have taught me that some wines can truly shine at 23 years old. I have had the pleasure of tasting mature Bordeaux wines from the 90s that were still vibrant, with complex flavors of dried fruits, leather, and earth. These wines had a beautiful balance of fruit, acidity, and tannins, showcasing the rewards of patience and proper storage.

On the other hand, I've also encountered wines that have aged poorly. Oxidation, a common issue with older wines, can result in a flat and dull flavor profile, devoid of the wine's original charm. Additionally, some wines may simply lose their fruitiness and develop tertiary aromas that may not be to everyone's liking.

While it is impossible to make a definitive statement about the quality of a 23-year-old wine without specific information, it is certainly possible for a wine to be good at this age. Factors such as storage conditions, the type and quality of the wine, and personal preferences all come into play. It is always a unique and exciting experience to open an older bottle and discover the evolution it has undergone. So, if you have a 23-year-old wine in your cellar, I encourage you to give it a try and see how it has aged.