What do volcanic wines taste like?

Answered by Rodney Landry

Volcanic wines, also known as wines produced from grapes grown in volcanic soil, have gained a lot of attention in recent years. These unique wines are said to possess distinct flavors and characteristics that set them apart from wines grown in other types of soil. As an expert sommelier and brewer, I have had the opportunity to taste and analyze numerous volcanic wines, and I must say, they truly offer a fascinating experience for the palate.

One of the most commonly used terms to describe volcanic wines is “smoky.” This descriptor refers to a subtle smokiness that can be detected in the aroma and taste of these wines. However, it is important to note that this smokiness does not come from the soil itself. Rather, it is believed to be a result of the unique microclimate and terroir found in volcanic regions. The volcanic soil tends to retain heat and radiate it back onto the vines, creating a warm and sheltered environment. This, in turn, affects the grape ripening process and can contribute to the development of smoky flavors in the .

In addition to smokiness, volcanic wines often exhibit mineral characteristics. This can manifest as a distinct minerality or a flinty quality on the palate. It is thought that the volcanic soil, rich in minerals such as potassium, magnesium, and iron, imparts these flavors onto the grapes. However, scientific research suggests that the minerals present in the soil do not directly transfer into the wine. Instead, it is the interaction between the soil, climate, and grapevines that influences the uptake and expression of these mineral flavors.

Another intriguing aspect of volcanic wines is their perceived saltiness. Some wine tasters describe a subtle salinity in these wines, reminiscent of sea salt or brine. This unique sensation is believed to be a result of the volcanic soil's ability to retain moisture and create a balanced supply for the vines. The volcanic ash and porous nature of the soil also contribute to good drainage, preventing excessive water retention and allowing the roots to access essential nutrients. This balance in the water supply and nutrient uptake may contribute to the development of saline characteristics in the wine.

Beyond these specific flavors, volcanic wines are often praised for their heightened complexity and structure. The combination of unique terroir, microclimate, and volcanic soil can result in wines with a strong backbone, well-defined tannins, and a firm structure. These wines tend to age well and can exhibit great depth and complexity over time.

It is worth noting that not all volcanic wines taste the same. The specific characteristics can vary depending on the type of volcanic soil, the grape varietal, and the winemaking techniques employed. For example, wines from volcanic regions such as Sicily, Santorini, and the Canary Islands can showcase different flavor profiles and nuances due to variations in volcanic activity and soil composition.

In my personal experience, tasting volcanic wines has been a journey of discovery. The combination of smoky, mineral, and saline notes, along with the overall complexity and structure, creates a truly unique and captivating experience. Each sip reveals new layers of flavor and intricacies that keep wine enthusiasts coming back for more.

To summarize, volcanic wines offer a range of flavors and characteristics that set them apart from wines grown in other types of soil. While terms like smoky, mineral, and salty are often used to describe these wines, it is important to understand that these flavors are not a direct transfer from the soil itself. Rather, they are influenced by the unique terroir, microclimate, and grape-growing conditions found in volcanic regions. Tasting volcanic wines is an exploration of the senses, and each bottle offers a glimpse into the fascinating world of volcanic viticulture.